Dubrovnik-the Pearl of the Adriatic

Dubrovnik-a historical, touristic, restored old walled town.  This a great place to visit but certainly difficult for local Croatians to live in. 

The old town is one of the best preserved walled cities in Europe and there are actually 3 gates to enter. 

Ploče Gate, 14th century, entering the walled city from the old harbor

Clock tower with Roman Numerals for the time (changes in 5 minute increments)

We met several people who live here and told us their opinions of the overwhelming crowds that come into Dubrovnik off cruise ships and day trippers. One woman told us “it all changed after the war”.  Prior to the Yugoslav War, tourists came from Europe in manageable numbers. During the war tourism dropped off but afterwards, and especially with cruise ships, Dubrovnik is really experiencing “over tourism “.  

The Stradum, or main street is full of tour groups and day trippers-and this is just the beginning of the tourist season

It’s a wonderful town full of sea faring history with wealth and Venetian influences around every corner. 

present-day Church of St. Blaise was damaged & destroyed by earthquakes and fires, the statue was save by some miracle

St Blaise usually holds a model of the city of Dubrovnik

St Blaise, died c.316, is the Protector of Dubrovnik because he warned of the 10th century attact by Venetians.  He is the also the Patron Saint of sufferers from throat diseases (because he miraculously cured a young boy from fatal choking on a fish bone) and of wool combers (after he was tortured and killed with wool combers' irons)

Today there are still 27 statues on administrative and merchant buildings

However, the city is struggling with how to handle the volume of Renaissance loving people and fans of “Game of Thrones” (filmed here). 

late in the evening after most tourists have left-Jesuit Staircase just around the corner from our apartment

walking the walls with the Lovrijenac Fort in the background

the wall of the city was built right into the stone cliff

Fortunately we had a few sunny days in Dubrovnik and walked the walls in the morning before the crowds!

Today only a little over 1,500 residents live within the city's historic centre down from 5,000 twenty years ago. Most people have moved out and turned their homes into AirBnB rentals!

Tourism in Dubrovnik on Croatia’s southern coast is up a massive 53% so far this year

Sustainable tourism is a new focus and we discovered this checklist for foreign travelers to consider the following where ever we go:

Is the place you are staying at owned by locals?

YES!  Our host, Zvonko, works and lives with his family in Dubrovnik and has only this one apartment which he personally manages. We are staying in his AirBnB apartment that is convenient for a week. This is a hilly area and we specifically chose a place on the flat part of the town but we still have 31 stairs to our 3rd floor home.

Restaurants in Dubrovnik are expensive so we have breakfast and occasional dinner "at home"

Looking out our 3rd floor window into the street (which is very narrow) at the workers hand delivering restaurant & bar supplies- there are no cars in the old town and hundreds of steps!!  We also hung out laundry out the window to dry!

Are you supporting local businesses and contributing to the economy versus buying items at manufactured souvenir shops?  

YES! We purchased from two farmer-producers in the “green market” and I bought a silver handmade traditional jewelry piece. 

I bought a hand-made Silver traditional 19th century filigree "button" pendant

Toma, the 4th generation jeweler, showing me his creations

Are you respecting the locals’ culture?

YES! We attended a concert of the Dubrovnik Symphony, a performance of the Lindo Folklore Ensemble and visited most of the museums in the city. 

Easter eggs decorated using was painting and natural dye (my Ukranian grandmother used to make these but never so detailed)

The concert is held in the Rector's Palace that has amazing accoustics for a big old stone building!  We met the Concert Mistress with the Dubrovnik Symphony (she is from San Francisco) and met her for ice cream later

beautiful authentic costumes from about 50 dancers and musicians

Is Dubrovnik worth visiting even with the crowds?  Absolutely YES!